We are searching data for your request:
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.
A couple of years ago the grape bush completely froze - green (well, more precisely, amber), sweet, without smack labrus (the labrus itself — as far as I can tell), minus — were very cracked with berries, hell was hellishly besieging it, but the most important thing in this bush was it insanely dear as the memory of a loved one. The bush grew near the wall of the greenhouse, among neighbors the same variety grows in the greenhouse. Why he died - that autumn there were extremely unfavorable conditions and - 20 degrees without snow cover and was uncovered. This spring, they came to him with shovels, first peeled the grass around, and there - 4 new shoots from the ground. In two years. How to help him recover? The shoots are tiny. The bush was about 15 years old. Long rains - can build a film shelter? Can feed what?
The technique of cutting a green vine is as follows. On a healthy maternal bush with high steady yield growing next to the bush to be replaced or free space, one or two green shoots are selected. Their base should be close to the surface of the earth or on a knot of substitution. As these shoots grow, they are tied vertically to a stake or trellis. Stepsons are removed at the very beginning of their appearance.
Escape reaches the desired length in late July - early August. With planting density 1, 3-1, 5 m the length of the vine (shoot) at the time of laying it in the ditch should be 2, 15-2, 3 m
From the uterine bush to the location of the future bush, I dig an inclined ditch with a depth of at least 50-60cm and the same width. The walls of the ditch are sheer, the bottom is sloped obliquely at an angle of 35-45 ° towards the stem of the mother bush. In this case, the upper layer of soil is thrown to one side of the ditch, and the bottom to the other.
Before laying the vines in the ground on the part that will be in the soil, I remove the leaves, tendrils and blind the eyes. At the bottom of the ditch, pour 1-2 shovels of rotted manure or 8-10 kg of compost, then dig the bottom onto the bayonet of the shovel, mixing fertilizer with the ground, and lay the prepared layering. At the same time, I carefully bend it downward in an arc and pass along the bottom of the ditch to the place of the future bush, bend it again, only upward, at the steep wall and bring it to the surface of the soil so that the top with 3-4 leaves and a growth point is above ground level.
First, fill the layering with the top layer of soil (up to half the depth of the ditch), then trample it for a more tight fit of the earth around the lay, which contributes to better root formation. I water the cuttings with 1-2 buckets of water and after it is absorbed, I completely fill the ditch. During the summer, depending on weather conditions, I do 1-2 watering.
If the shoot is strong, but of insufficient length, it can be used with the top left in the hole. I fall asleep as the shoot grows so that 2-3 upper leaves and a growth point are brought to the surface of the soil. Leaves from the vine, falling asleep in the hole with earth, delete. The advantage of green vine layering versus dry layering is that this vine is much quicker and better rooting; shoots are used that have not yet reached the length necessary for laying. The main thing, perhaps, is that green layers can be done at a time when the tension in work in the field and in household plots decreases.
I personally practiced this method. 80 ditches in one ditch cm stacked two vines grown on substitution knots, but not important for the formation of the bush.
Layers laid in a ditch parallel to each other at a distance of 40 cm and brought them to the surface of the soil so that there were 2-3 leaflets and a shoot growth point above it. He brought together the shoot heads in the place where the new bush should grow, reducing the distance between them to 20 cm. With a two-plane trellis, the bushes formed in opposite directions of the row and on different planes of the trellis. With such growing bushes, their roots are less intertwined, they better use nutrients in the soil, and the aboveground parts of plants do not obscure each other. Bushes grow powerful and high-yielding.