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Garter and Pruning Grapes in Spring: Tips for Beginners

Garter and Pruning Grapes in Spring: Tips for Beginners

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With the help of grape pruning and other “green” operations, we can regulate the strength of the grape bush and redistribute nutrition to those parts of the plant that are needed. With the spring garter of the annual and perennial vines vertically (the so-called vertical polarity), food enters only the upper eyes. The lower kidneys will remain dormant. The crop will be negligible.

Grape garter

If the upper perennial vine and annual (fruit bearing arrow) are tied up at an angle of 45 °, the vertical polarity will be slightly reduced, and several will wake up on the fruit bearing arrow instead of one eye. In this case, several shoots will grow, and the yield will be higher than in the first case. A garter at an angle of 45 ° is good in that due to the fact that not all eyes have woken up, there will be no need to normalize the bush with shoots and crops.

The fruiting arrow can also be tied up horizontally. In this case, all the overwintered eyes wake up. Due to this, the yield on the fruit bearing arrow will be maximum. However, in this case, you need to be very careful and not overload the bush and its oppression. To do this, remove all thin shoots (thinner than 6 mm), shoots that have stopped in growth (which do not have a bend at the end of the shoot). In large-fruited varieties, it is necessary to remove the 2nd and 3rd clusters, leaving the largest first.

It has been noticed that when garter of a perennial vine at an angle of 45 °, and annual horizontal or at an angle of 45 ° sugar content of berries increases compared with bushes, vines which are tied vertically.

Grape pruning

When fragments of shoots and tops are broken off at the very beginning of growth (up to 10 cm), when there is no hope of new sleeves being withdrawn, the nutrients intended for these shoots are redistributed to the shoots left on the bush. But this only happens if you are not late with the wreckage. If the shoots with your fingers no longer break off, then you will no longer get a positive effect from this procedure - the plant has already expended its energy on their growth. In addition, by pruning hardened shoots with a secateurs, you will inflict badly healing wounds on the vine, which will also be the gateway for infection.

A positive effect can be achieved by breaking out thin, stunted shoots that exist due to strong shoots.

Spring pruning for beginners

If in strongly growing shoots, even before flowering (when the inflorescences diverge on the brink), pinch the top, then their growth will stop for 7-10 days until stepsons appear. Nutrition, which at this time should have been spent on the further growth of these shoots, will go to the inflorescences. In inflorescences, in turn, due to the enhanced nutrition, more berries will be planted, they will be better performed in comparison with berries on bushes on which this operation was not performed.

Redistribution of nutrition of grape bushes occurs also in the case when we remove 2-3 inflorescences from bushes of large-fruited varieties. The berries of the remaining inflorescences on the bush grow larger and they are tied significantly more. The crop in the end is almost the same as if all the inflorescences were left on the bush, only its quality will significantly improve. Plus, by normalizing the number of inflorescences, we increase the resistance of the bush to diseases and pests, and contribute to laying a higher yield for the next year.

Pruning grapes for beginners:

Grape pruning in the fall

In the 20th of August, if the shoots continue to grow (this can be seen by the bend at their ends), it is necessary to start minting the shoots, cutting off their upper part at a distance of 20 cm from the upper wire. This operation forces the plants to stop growing and begin to prepare for wintering. The bush begins to lay nutrients in the nodes, perennial vine, roots, the vine begins to ripen.

Cutting grape bushes into a fruit link in autumn, you must cut out the weak, not matured vines, leaving only the best, well-ripened and most well-placed to maintain the shape of the bush you have chosen. This technique again helps to regulate the supply of nutrients to individual parts of the plant next year - food that would go to the cut part of the bush, after pruning, is redistributed between the remaining vines.

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